Fujifilm NP-W126S Lithium-Ion Battery for X-Pro1, X-E1, X-M1, X-A1
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I don't think you will see any difference in the X-Pro2 because it was not designed to be take advantage of the features of the NP-W126s. For all versions of Fuji X ILCs except for the X-T2, the NP-W126 or the NP-W126s is the correct battery to use. For the X-T2, the NP-W126 will work if you don't use 4K video. Well, that's a piece of information I've not seen. Where did you read that about the X-Pro2 design? B&H lists compatibility for the battery as: X-T2 and X-Pro2. Why do they identify these two as fully compatible but not the X-T1 and earlier x models? You must have sources that say B&H got it wrong. I'm genuinely curious.
It makes more sense to me that Fuji would have designed both of the Generation 3 cameras to take full advantage of the new battery they were developing, but that the battery might not have been ready for the X-Pro2 release. in., 3690k-dot OLED viewfinder; magnification 0.75× with 50 mm lens (35 mm format equivalent) at infinity and diopter set to −1.0 m−1; diagonal angle of view approximately 38° (horizontal angle of view approximately 30°)
Fujifilm NP-W126S Key Features:
mm × 92.8 mm × 58.8 mm (35.4 mm excluding projections, measured at thinnest part)/5.22 in. × 3.65 in. × 2.31 in. (1.39 in.)
Highly respected 3rd Party batteries like Watson and Patona, quote capacities that are very similar to the OEM battery’s capacity. My own experience, and that of many others, is that the best 3rd Party batteries can deliver a capacity similar to the OEM batteriesThis issue isn’t that serious on new Fuji cameras (like X-T2 or X-Pro2) since their indicator is more granular and even percentage can be shown. Older cameras (X-T1 or X-Pro1) offer only 4 states of the indicator (Full or 3 bars, 2 bars, 1 bar and Empty). Based on the chart we can deduct how much of the battery remains when there is a change in the battery indicator: My old original NP-W126 currently, after several years of usage, has roughly 1100 mAh, while it had >1200 mAh when new. Lower quality batteries can show more significant aging, the DSTE battery is already almost unusable. Conclusion I also used my thermal camera, Flir One for Android ( iOS version exists too), to capture batteries after a heavy load. While the original battery shows mostly evenly distributed heat on its surface, the noname battery has much higher temperature in a smaller rectangle in the middle. This might be the reason for swelling of some batteries. Self-discharging
Still pictures: Exif 2.3 JPEG (compressed); RAW (original RAF format, uncompressed or compressed using a lossless algorithm; special purpose software required); RAW+JPEG available He now also published the most comprehensive guide to Fujifilm original and third party batteries I have ever seen on the web so far.fujirumors.com– TESTED: Third Party Fuji Batteries? “Inflated capacity values. Some batteries almost Fraud!”… and the Winner is…? The battery indicators in cameras are based on actual voltage of the battery. However, since the Fuji batteries have quite a different voltage curve, compared to all the aftermarket batteries, the remaining capacity shown by the camera isn’t accurate for non-Fuji batteries. This is mostly apparent on almost empty batteries — while the camera shows that the battery is still OK, it can actually be almost empty. I'd love if they can be charged by USB or provide a USB out so i don't need to carry mobile charger and this